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How to: replace a water pump and thermostat on a 98 Nissan Frontier.

February 2nd, 2013 3 comments
Water pumps

Water pumps

In this episode, we will illustrate how to go about disassembling and reassembling the water pump and thermostat housing on a 1998 Nissan Frontier. As a caveat, place emphasis on understanding the order of operation and not the actual photographs themselves. I had to use my phone camera to take most of these pictures and some were taken in reverse order during the assembly process, hence the pictures are rather crappy and the actual parts may look out of order.

water pump 101

Remove air-filter housing.

water pump 102

Loosen and swivel out of the way the metal clip.

water pump 103

Loosen second clip and remove air-intake hose with slight pushing and twisting.

water pump 104

Power steering belt exposed.

water pump 105

Loosen Power Steering belt by adjusting the idler pulley (The rusty looking part on the right-hand-side).

water pump 106

Remove power-steering belt and locate structural plate.

water pump 107

Unbolt structural plate.

water pump 108

Remove plate.

water pump 109

Power-steering assembly

water pump 110

Unbolt two bolts attached to the power-steering assembly facing the front of the vehicle.

water pump 111

Unbolt two bolts attached towards the top side of the power-steering assembly as shown.

water pump 112

You should have removed four bolts attached to the power-steering assembly thus far.

water pump 113

Swivel the hinge away from the top of the power-steering assembly.

water pump 114

Get under vehicle and identify swivel bolt securing the alternator.

water pump 115

Loosen (do not remove) alternator swing bolt to allow swivel motion.

water pump 116

Move power-steering assembly out of the way without disconnecting attached hydraulic lines.

water pump 117

Adjust tension bolts attached to alternator to relieve tension to alternator belt for removal.

water pump 118

Water pump and thermostat housing.

water pump 119

Thermostat housing exposed after removing three bolts.

water pump 120

Water pump exposed after removing fan axle.

water pump 121

Close-up of water pump and screws attaching fan.

water pump 122

Water pump removed. Slight tapping was needed to dismount the pump after the bolts were removed.

water pump 123

Run a small bead of Water pump RTV silicone to secure everything in place. Read this article backwards to reassemble the truck.

How to: Change out the parking lamps on a C5 Corvette Z06

October 6th, 2010 1 comment

Recently, I’ve had the good fortune of helping my famous Corvette-owning Author friend with a minor repair to his Vette’s burnt out driving/parking lights. Below are a few lessons learned from the experience designed to help those who may share my similar good fortune fiddling with a marvelous piece of American Engineering. Before we begin, the tools you’ll need for replacement of these two pesky light bulbs are your hands (Preferably small, dexterous, sensitive, yet heat resistant), good mechanical inclination, good spatial-abstract analytical abilities, and the ability to read and comprehend what’s written here.

Before we begin, study closely the casing that encloses the light bulbs. Print out the attached pictures to help with visualization.

The light bulbs for this repair (2 large amber bulbs – part number: 3157NA/4157NA) and (2 Little white bulbs – part number: 194) will set you back roughly $6/pack for a total of roughly $12. We bought one set at a local auto parts store and the other at a local Wal-Mart. We learned after stopping at Wal-Mart that both sets were available for $0.30-$0.70 less than the auto parts place the day of the repair. Regardless, small price to pay given the circumstances. All the best with the repairs. Feel free to link this article or share with us your repair experience in the comments. Toodles.

How to: Change out the radiator for a Nissan Frontier.

May 2nd, 2010 6 comments

Hello and welcome to another exciting episode of: fix your ride. Today we are going to cover how you’d go about replacing a radiator for a 1998 Nissan Frontier. Although you may not own a Nissan Frontier, the lessons presented in reference to radiator replacement is universally applicable to most cars. This issue was selected because I drive a Nissan Frontier, and it just so happens that my radiator decided to explode after just 200,000 miles of use, causing me to have to go out and replace the damn thing. I’ve enclosed a bunch of pictures taken during repair that will be arranged in chronological order. The level of difficulty involved with this process is just slightly harder than that of changing the oil. If you have any mechanical inclination whatsoever, you will do just fine.

Before delving into pictures, make a mental note of the few items listed below for a safer and more enjoyable repair experience: Firstly, before heading out to your favorite store, call to make sure that the radiator that fits your model car is available and in stock.Ā  Secondly, pick up a radiator flush kit to rid any residual coolant in the system and pick up a gallon of coolant for after the installation. Thirdly, be sure that the vehicle has been off for awhile and that all engine components are cool to the touch.

Reverse the disassemble process to make whole your vehicle. Once everything is replaced, fill the new radiator with 50/50 water and antifreeze coolant. The aftermarket radiator that I purchased had a minor defect where the fan box was seated to the ledge. The distance of the rounded-rectangular cut out in the ledge where the pegs from the fan box were to have been inserted were off by 2mm. The 2 mm caused me an extra 20 minutes of improvised sawing to make the thing work. Best of luck with your radiator repair adventures. Feel free to drop a comment with further questions or concerns.

Categories: Fix your ride Tags: , ,

How-to: Honda Civic Door Lock Mechanism

March 22nd, 2010 9 comments

If you find the pictures are too small, right click and download them to your computer. I’ve not yet the time to re-code the html for the neat pop-up feature because I’m lazy. They are now click-able :-p

In our previous episode, we uncovered the door panel of a Honda
Civic in order to replace a defective auto doorlock mechanism. Upon
further investigation into the root of the problem that’s inspired this
exercise, we’ve discovered that the problem is attributed to the
breakdown of a $2 DC motor component. Honda, you need to have a serious
meeting with the manufacturer of this inferior component before this
potentially cancerous trend of defective crap plagues your entire
product line. Things like this have happened before, and it can and
will happen to anyone, even Honda. Enough blabbery. For those of you
really interested in what went wrong with the auto doorlock component,
behold:

The doorlock assembly. Top portion is actual mechanism (metallic),
bottom is auto doorlock motor (black).
The white nipple structure on the doorlock motor is what actuates
the mechanism.
Note the simple gearing construction inside the auto doorlock motor
(black).
Closer view.
The $2 DC mortor burnt out, which led to my having spent $60 on this
component, which leads me to having to throw all this stuff in the
garbage, which will eventually end up in a landfill somewhere. Now,
where’s the environmentology in that? To exacerbate my frustration, the
doorlock motor on the driver’s side door also burned-out recently.
Support this amateur car repair blogger.

I sincerely hope that somebody at Honda will look into this issue and
take care of this nuisance. I’m certain that a quick database search
into the parts sold will quickly reveal the deficiency in this
department: If 500,000 Honda Civics were sold in 2001 and 6 Million Lock
Assembly (part number 72110-s5p-A22) has been purchased since, it
doesn’t take a genius to figure out what the problem may be.

This article is yet another transplant from 10-25-2007, from an older version of chisheu.com powered by DrupalĀ®.