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How to: Fix a Kenmore Elite HE Washer error code E6

November 11th, 2013 3 comments
Kenmore Elite Washer

Kenmore Elite Washer

I bought a Kenmore high efficiency Elite washer from a Craigslister with an E6 error. According to the user manual that I downloaded off the internet, code E6 is a clutch error indicative of a mechanical failure that requires a service call. The symptoms of the E6 error was a light ticking sound much like that of a slipping gear. When you turn on the washer and select a wash cycle, the machine will run through a quick diagnostic of the components. The ticking sound will ensue during the spin test and the error will comes on shortly thereafter to halt all operation.

In my case, the error was caused by a mechanical misalignment of the clutch gearing requiring no new parts. If you run across the same problem, I hope this post will help you resurrect your $800 washer to functional status. If you are feeling adventurous, read on…

As a caveat, this tutorial is not sanctioned by anyone or anything. The dramatization depicted in the following illustrated narrative can cause serious hazard to your health, and possible death. Reader’s discretion is advised. Now, on with the happy stuff…

Before tinkering with the washer, make sure it is unplugged from any electrical source. Secondly, turn off and disconnect all attached hoses (have a mop and bucket handy). To get to the clutch assembly, lay down a blanket or mat that will keep the machine from being scuffed. Tape the top loading hatch shut. Remove all plastic hose clamps from the back side, remove the drain hose, and lay the washer on its back. The drain hose connection will jot out a bit, so wedge the protruding part with a 2×4 piece of wood to keep it from damage.

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With the washer’s butt exposed, take a crescent wrench to break free the common nut in a counter-clockwise direction that holds the rotor plate to the stator assembly. With the nut and washer removed, firmly grasp the rotor plate and gently pull down and away from the stator assembly (This is a giant magnetized plate; be gentle). With the rotor plate removed, the white plastic clutch assembly in the center is exposed. All I had to do to repair the clutch was unscrew the three 8mm hex bolts and re-seat the gearing so that the cogs in the gears are properly mated. I had the help of a buddy to turn the tub on the top end of the washer while I tinkered under the washer’s skirt, which really helped out the process.

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That is it for the moment. I hope this post helps those struggling with temperamental Kenmore Elite Washers around the house. All the best!

I’ve attached a copy of the user manual I found from the internet here for your reference and convenience.

How to: replace a water pump and thermostat on a 98 Nissan Frontier.

February 2nd, 2013 3 comments
Water pumps

Water pumps

In this episode, we will illustrate how to go about disassembling and reassembling the water pump and thermostat housing on a 1998 Nissan Frontier. As a caveat, place emphasis on understanding the order of operation and not the actual photographs themselves. I had to use my phone camera to take most of these pictures and some were taken in reverse order during the assembly process, hence the pictures are rather crappy and the actual parts may look out of order.

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Remove air-filter housing.

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Loosen and swivel out of the way the metal clip.

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Loosen second clip and remove air-intake hose with slight pushing and twisting.

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Power steering belt exposed.

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Loosen Power Steering belt by adjusting the idler pulley (The rusty looking part on the right-hand-side).

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Remove power-steering belt and locate structural plate.

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Unbolt structural plate.

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Remove plate.

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Power-steering assembly

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Unbolt two bolts attached to the power-steering assembly facing the front of the vehicle.

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Unbolt two bolts attached towards the top side of the power-steering assembly as shown.

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You should have removed four bolts attached to the power-steering assembly thus far.

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Swivel the hinge away from the top of the power-steering assembly.

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Get under vehicle and identify swivel bolt securing the alternator.

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Loosen (do not remove) alternator swing bolt to allow swivel motion.

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Move power-steering assembly out of the way without disconnecting attached hydraulic lines.

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Adjust tension bolts attached to alternator to relieve tension to alternator belt for removal.

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Water pump and thermostat housing.

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Thermostat housing exposed after removing three bolts.

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Water pump exposed after removing fan axle.

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Close-up of water pump and screws attaching fan.

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Water pump removed. Slight tapping was needed to dismount the pump after the bolts were removed.

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Run a small bead of Water pump RTV silicone to secure everything in place. Read this article backwards to reassemble the truck.

How to: Fix a heat sink anchor clip on the motherboard

December 30th, 2010 3 comments

While resurrecting a slew of over-the-hill computers from my computer graveyard, I came across an interesting challenge that’s inspired me to catalog the repair. The heat sink to the North Bridge chip popped off because an anchor holding down the spring dislodged itself from the motherboard. I looked online for ways to replace the anchor with the least amount of effort, but couldn’t find anything that didn’t involve soldering. As much as I enjoy removing the entire motherboard from the chassis and soldering electronic components onto a board coated with anti-flux, I opted for an easier, albeit less scientific approach. I hope this post will be helpful to anyone who comes across a similar challenge.

I can say with a fair degree of certainty that the repair method depicted will not be sanctioned by anyone who’ve had the slightest training in basic electronics and logic design, and much less the manufacturers of the motherboard. I’ve tested the hardware after the repair and everything appears to be in working order (hardware and software). Personally, this ghetto repair method was justified for a computer ten-years past its prime.
Note the location of the missing clip and its non-missing twin on the upper-right-hand corner.Heat sink. Spring harness. One dislodged anchor.Visualization exercise.Gently coaxing the anchor back into its seat.Run a small bead of Super Glue between the plastic washer and the motherboard surface. I squeezed two drops and let the capillary action absorbed the glue into the seam.Post-glue observation.Slather on thermal grease between the chip and the heat sink.Take a moment to ponder why they charge so much for grease.Smack on the heat sink and lock it down to the anchors.

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How to: Change out the parking lamps on a C5 Corvette Z06

October 6th, 2010 1 comment

Recently, I’ve had the good fortune of helping my famous Corvette-owning Author friend with a minor repair to his Vette’s burnt out driving/parking lights. Below are a few lessons learned from the experience designed to help those who may share my similar good fortune fiddling with a marvelous piece of American Engineering. Before we begin, the tools you’ll need for replacement of these two pesky light bulbs are your hands (Preferably small, dexterous, sensitive, yet heat resistant), good mechanical inclination, good spatial-abstract analytical abilities, and the ability to read and comprehend what’s written here.

Before we begin, study closely the casing that encloses the light bulbs. Print out the attached pictures to help with visualization.

The light bulbs for this repair (2 large amber bulbs – part number: 3157NA/4157NA) and (2 Little white bulbs – part number: 194) will set you back roughly $6/pack for a total of roughly $12. We bought one set at a local auto parts store and the other at a local Wal-Mart. We learned after stopping at Wal-Mart that both sets were available for $0.30-$0.70 less than the auto parts place the day of the repair. Regardless, small price to pay given the circumstances. All the best with the repairs. Feel free to link this article or share with us your repair experience in the comments. Toodles.